One
of the loudest criticisms levelled at Platter’s is that – until they are
nominated for 5 stars – only one (sighted) panelist assesses and rates a
particular wine. This is how Editor Philip van Zyl keeps panelists honest.
1.
Calibration Wines: Each year 5 categories of wine - entry level unwooded white,
premium level unwooded white, premium wooded white, entry level red and premium
red – are tasted double-blind and rated by the panel of tasters. The scores are
collated and, prior to the commencement of the tasting cycle, each panelist is
sent a sufficient stock of the panel-rated wines as reference.
2.
Wines making their debut in the guide or returning after an absence are tasted
by a panel in the first year of entry or return.
3.
Should a panelist rate a wine one or more stars lower or higher than the previous year, the
opinion of at least one other member of the team is sought. It’s worth bearing
in mind that vintage variations are less pronounced in the Cape’s
climate than much of the old world.
4.
A programme of double-blind corroboration tastings runs alongside the sighted
tastings. For example, random samples with known scores are sent to panelists
to score.
5.
Before the annual tastings commence, the tasters must sign a legally binding
declaration of interest which requires them to recuse themselves from tasting
the wines of producers with whom they have any sort of commercial or financial
involvement, or any other circumstance which could (or could be seen to)
prevent them from making an impartial judgment.
6.
Should producers feel that the allocated panelist would not be able to meet
the impartiality requirements contained in the declaration, they are able to
communicate their concern in writing to the publisher and nominate three
alternative panelists, from whom the publisher will select a new panelist. No
one panelist assesses a particular producer for more than three consecutive
years.
7.
In keeping with the rollout of regional tastings (i.e. more within peer group)
started in 2010, panelists will be going to the Klein Karoo, Tulbagh,
Robertson, Olifants River, Worcester
and Elim/Southern Cape to assess wines under the usual Platter rules and
procedures.
Panel
assessment of each wine would be a logistical nightmare – including time and
money (more than 7000 wines in 2012). Also, in the rush for the annual December deadline (and Xmas sales) some
wines, as submitted by producers, are not ready for assessment.
The
guide – if it wishes to remain a pocket guide – cannot keep growing in its
current format. One option is to only include wines rated three stars and
above or exclude the descriptions of the wines scoring less than three stars.
Another option is to have a red edition and a white edition. One for
Christmas and another around mother’s/father’s/valentine's/whatever day. This split could allow for panel assessment?
Bear
in mind:
*
Platter is not a competition but a wine guide – one of the most comprehensive
and detailed in the world.
*
Wine assessment, whether by panel or individual, is not an exact science.
*
Wines evolve in the bottle and in the glass.
*
Wine is a great leveller, even (and especially) for professionals.
*
The above is also an argument for a panel, but that is the beauty of wine.
*
The argument against panels is that it becomes an exercise in averaging scores.
